Boy, do I love this sport. We had two great days this last week where all the elements came together, the tide was right, the sun was out, swell direction perfect, no wind, and a great group of friends to share it with. Jr., Slater, Conner, Chris, Loch, Robby, Kai, Victor, Buzzy, Jamie and even two of the best photographers( Erik Aeder, Darrell Wong) to capture it on film. This sport already creates enough magic moments day in and day out, and even though it wasn’t especially big, it was exceptionally good.
Aloha, Dave
Photos by Erik Aeder
Oh, man! That long line you’re drawing in the second shot… outrageous. It looks like you made that face crack a big, wide smile. Art, brah.
“the waves wasn’t exceptionally big”.
The waves looks pretty big to me!