Like a lot of groms from my era, I idolized many of the great surfers from the seventies, especially the guys from Hawaii. I loved Larry Bertlemen’s cut back and rubberman style, Button’s incredible creativity and playfulness, and most of all Gerry Lopez’s style and grace. Even more though was Gerry’s persona and the way he carried himself with such subtle casual confidence, that it seemed so genuine, he innately didn’t need to over play his personalty. The way Gerry came flying out of the barrel at Pipeline, with his red board and yellow lighting bolt logo, made me pretend that I was him when I kicked out of my mushy little California beach break waves. I also loved the way Dane Kealoha absolutely crushed the wave with his speed and power. So when I started riding waves, probably more than anybody else, those two people, Gerry and Dane, influenced my surfing the most. Because of my similar body type to Dane I skewed more towards Dane’s power style yet always had an appreciation for Gerry’s watery charisma. Even in my windsurfing days I always envisioned how they might ride a wave and I would try to emulate that picture in my mind.
Back in 85′ when I moved to Maui, Gerry was still very much my surfing idol, along with just about every other surfer in the world. When I arrived on Maui with the help of my adopted uncle Pete. I spent a lot of time at his house, right on the beach, cutting my teeth in the windsurfing world. To afraid at the time to go up to Hookipa where the real guys went, I spent most of my time down at Sprecks and thus didn’t see many of the big name guys. So one afternoon, after a great day of windsurfing, my uncle said he invited a few friends over for a BBQ and that I was welcome to stay. Having very little money for food then I always welcomed a free meal, and said I would be thankful to join him. Sitting on his front deck, over looking the ocean, I was enjoying the afternoon’s mellow color changes and soaking in the days adrenaline hangover from all the fun. So I figured it was time to go grab a cold beer and take this beautiful afternoon to the next level. As I walked through the living room towards the kitchen my eyes hadn’t adjusted to the inside light yet so when I turned the corner into the kitchen, and it’s bright lights, I wasn’t sure I could trust my eyes when I saw Gerry Lopez standing right in front of me. My uncle Pete introduced us and I shook his hand in complete awe. It took every ounce of cool I had to just get a” hello” and “really nice to meet you” out, without tripping over my own tongue. I couldn’t believe my childhood hero was standing in front of me giving me his attention for a moment. I honestly can’t remembered what I said or what he asked me because I was so overwhelmed by the experience. Like a car accident where every thing slows down and you remember some of the most minuet details, I actually remember seeing individual whiskers on his classic Gerry beard at the time and wondering what it would be like to see some of his best memories of Pipe, from his eyes. I do recall him being very gracious and patient with me trying not to gawk at him. I’m pretty sure I didn’t make an ass out of myself that evening because he invited me to join him and his brother to do a coast run, from Hookipa to Sprecks, with them the next day. Over the next few months I actually got to know Gerry pretty well and he even sponsored me with his custom made windsurf boards. As time went by and I got to know Gerry even better, especially when we started tow surfing, he almost took on this Obe wan kanobi Jedi master type role within the tow group. His experience and advise was considered very valuable within our small brotherhood. For everything from board design to mental preparation for the big days.
Unfortunately I don’t get to see Gerry much these days, but we’ll run into each other here or there on occasion, and my first impulse, like I’m sure almost all of his friends have, is to think ” wow it’s Gerry Lopez”. Fortunately Gerry’s demeanor is so cool and friendly that any nervousness instantly seems pointless and like any soul that evolved, he exudes a calmness that permeates all that are around him. Occasionally, throughout life you get to meet your heroes. Sometimes it’s a great experience and at times it can be very disappointing. Not only did I get to meet one of my heroes, he ended up being a good friend. I’m very lucky to have a friend like that.
Aloha,
Dave
What a cool story about one humble legendary waterman meeting another. It doesn’t take much to appreciate what Gerry has done to touch the lives of many surfers and non-surfers alike. To read his stories in his book, “surf Is Where You Find It,” especially after reading his mission statement for SRF (Surf Realization Fellowship), one can extract the deeper meaning of what he is sharing in his experiences with the reader. The time will come when we are all reading your book in the same way.
I stood next to him for a minute at BOP. It was very weird, seeing my childhood hero in the flesh. Kind of like seeing a cartoon action hero materialize in front of you: you can’t quite believe it’s real. I mean, I live in Hollywood — I see famous actors and musicians all the time. None of them really get my attention much. But Lopez, well, it’s like, I remember seeing footage of him taming monster Pipeline with a casual flick of the nose, and I imagine what it must have been like to be him, standing in the thundering vortex, making it up as we all watched in awe, and, well, *that* gets my attention. Guy’s a total hero in a world where heroism is an increasingly diluted commodity…
You get it. Aloha, Dave
Dave this is a great story. Gerry Lopez defines the classic surfing icon, however I wonder if the title of great surfer idol can be attributed to you as well. I had the pleasure of meeting you in Seattle for a SUP demo and was very impressed by your humble demeanor and genuine interest in making it a very fun day. I think some of the same things went through my mind when shaking your hand that did for you when meeting Gerry, but you played it off exactly like you describe him doing with you. Thank you for that.
I have a simlar story Dave. I’m a skier, mountain biker, fly fishing guy from Fernie BC whose recently gotten into river SUP. Anyways this area, the Kootenays has a bit of a Gerry connection as he makes an annual pilgrimage to ride the pow and has also featured some of his entertaining articles in a twice yearly magazine entitled Kootenay Mountain Culture.
Some friends of mine invited me to join them on their annual surfing trip to the Oregon coast. I was so excited to surf real waves on my SUP I could barely sleep!
On day two the waves were actually quite big by our standards and we were getting pummelled, both my buddies on shortboards and myself on a 9’8″ SUP.
A lone stand up paddler was ripping it up big time on a wave breaking 3 or 400 yards from shore, getting awesome rides, i just sat there watching this goofy footer with the bucket hat laying down super stylish bottom turns. I had a feeling it’s probably Gerry… My friend Kieran says to me: “Dude, get out there!”
I was feeling a little overwhelmed surfing that far from shore, never mind the fact that had i gone out there and realized it was Gerry, my legs would have gone to rubber!
He then proceeds to ride a few waves in and walks out right in front of me, how stoked was I! Between the after effects of the thrashings and being a little star struck i suddenly developed a bit of a speech impediment! He just walks up to me with the biggest smile and says “Believe it or not, this is actually really good for this spot!” Sweet..